SnapShips and ZBuilders

A long time ago, I got my hands on Zoids Z Builders (aka Blox) and thought they were pretty cool, but didn’t really chase it further. As I sometimes do, I wondered if there was a modern equivalent, so I looked for ‘scifi robot cube building toys’ and found SnapShips. Over a decade after the debut of Z builders, it’s worth comparing these cube-and-greeble 1/72 scifi building toys of past and present.

Z Builders

Sprues!

The first thing you notice about the Zoids model is just how much of a capital ‘M’ Model Kit it is. Previous Zoids figures where less toy like-they where a little more like something you’d see from Tamaya or Airfix, though they contained motorized play elements. Z builders adds freely moving joints/possibility and a building system instead of a windup mechanism, but you are still looking at sprues when you first open the box, and decals when you finish the build. Like some Gunpla kits, the sprues are made of different colored plastic so no paint is required for a half decent paintjob.

Feel human, use tools

One interesting similarity between ZBuilders and SnapShips is that they both include a small tool for disassembly. SnapShips include a spudger, and Zoids ships with an ‘extractor tool.’

Zoids ‘blox’ elements are 14.7mm, and no rounder in inches.

The stickers are a pain. There is no guide so you have to sort of look at the box and figure out where they go, (again) more like a traditional scale model. They are in a grid and the squares are much larger than the places you need to put them, so you have to cut them to size. After all that, they don’t go on super clear. Wet transfer decals would have been better if they’re not going to die cut them anyway. They do add a nice sense of scale though.

The model is somewhat poseable. It won’t really hold a pose that involves much weight because the rubber joints are rather weak. It’s possible that the decades since it was manufactured have taken a toll on the rubber. Still, robotic dinosaur: very cool. Timeless even.

Wonder how it’s supposed to reload that arm gun without opposable thumbs? Perhaps its teeth…

SnapShips

SnapShips cube elements are 20mm

The SnapShips have much more detailed, Lego style instructions but they aren’t really as needed if you want to build it like a puzzle. The blocks lock together so that rather than flexing, they hold a specific shape. The parts are all in bags – no sprues which is honestly kinda chaotic.

The SnapShips contain three alt-builds each, similar to what Lego does with its Creator theme. I built the forward-swept wing design rather than the front-of-box design.

SnapShips give you tons of rectangular greeble panels, but a cube is relatively large compared to the scale so all of the vehicles you make will turn out very blocky. There are relatively few specialized pieces besides the aforementioned panels. Between sets there’s a strong compatibility at least – there’s only two color schemes. You get prints instead of stickers too. I think the appeal may be limited for SnapShips though. Trying to make something sleek out of something so boxy is going to be a challenge with the part set available, and the boxes are so big compared to the features people will want to capture is going to make that rectilinear form stand out.

Something else to consider about SnapShips is that it’s got a full blown tabletop war game of all things associated with it. Apparently it’s quite similar to X Wing. 1/72 is sort of a huge scale for dogfighting, but some reviewers seem to love it.

Glue Guide

So here is a strange question. I underestimated just how sharp exacto knives are while cleaning up the seams on my minis. Can i just use the plastic glue to seal it rather then keep changing bandaids each time it comes back open and bleeds again?

u/themonkeyone, who I assume isn’t a plastic model

When I saw this, I realized I really did need to write this up. I cannot allow the public to remain uninformed any longer regarding glue!

Plastic Cement

Also known as: Plastic Glue

This stuff smells like nail polish remover, and it’s no coincidence: they both use Acetone. The Acetone in plastic glue liquefies the plastic surfaces and when they re-harden, they’re very well stuck together. Cement is right; this stuff creates very strong bonds. The drawback is that it’s only good for specific plastics; the sort of polystyrene that you see in typical model kits, but it won’t work if you’re attaching a rock to a base or working with resin parts. It also won’t bind up your skin (otherwise nail polish remover would be far more dangerous. If you take nothing else from this article, take this:

You cannot close wounds with plastic cement!

If something is stuck on with plastic cement, your best bet for cutting it off.

SuperGlue

Now, I’m not a doctor, but I’m assured you can close a wound with superglue. It certainly sticks robustly to skin. Cyanoacrylate, the technical term for this type of glue will readily bond skin, so avoid using it without gloves. If you do, I recommend GoJo. CA glue will work with a variety of materials and form very strong bonds, but it has a few drawbacks: it’s finicky about setting. You get a few seconds to hold your bond steady (pressure is good) and then the glue is no good, you’ll need to try again after removing the now-spent glue. If you glue painted parts you need to make sure you don’t get glue anywhere visible, because it dries opaque. Its quick setting can be an asset though; you can pull off poses that would be slightly trickier for a longer setting glue. I hear you can freeze it off, but I haven’t had success with this myself.

PVA Glue

PVA glue, also known as School Glue, is also used in wood glues. It’s the least consequential of glues; you’re not going to poison yourself with it (unless, I imagine, you drink it) and if it sticks to your fingers you can can just wash it off, or rub your fingers together for a few seconds. It’s popular for basing because it’s thick, goopy, and easy to fix if you make a mistake; just add sand! You can even get it premixed with sand in the form of nice basing paste. It can be dissolved by soaking in water for a day or so and then scraping off with a toothpick.

A gem: Multiverse In Review

Multiverse In Review is the type of treatment that makes reading a bunch of background story for a tabletop game worth it. Source by source, the author is examining every available piece of Fluff in (and out of) the Magic: The Gathering cannon, with (so far) an emphasis on the type of sources that most fans never would have seen, especially in the pre-internet “before time”.

The most fascinating bits are the insights into how the story evolved, and what hidden information those changes reveal. I find these big shared universes very fascinating, and would love to see a similar treatment of, say, the Warhammer 40k setting. A good example, if you want a horizontal slice, would be these three articles on the conception of the Antiquities story the Antiquities comics and the Jeff Grub novel that slots the story into the modern (ish) cannon. Every article is a good read if you’re into that sort of thing.